Labels: costa rica
Labels: costa rica, teaching
I came to Costa Rica to teach English, in part, because I was burned out by the corporate lifestyle. I wanted to take a break from the rat race. I needed to get off the fast track for awhile.
In a delightful twist of irony, my first teaching gig here is to conduct a two-hour seminar on job interview skills. I am being billed as a "business specialist." I believe I may even wear a tie.
Wish me luck. I'll let you know how it goes.
Labels: costa rica
Based on the number of signs and advertisements, this is Costa Rica's king of beers. Billboards say that consuming Imperial will cause men to be surrounded by bikini-clad women. But I have to give the country credit on this: their most popular beer isn't a watered-down appeal to the lowest common palate. This is a creamy, robust lager with just a touch of bite (weighing in at 4.6% alcohol). This is the beer you want when you're just going to have a couple of tallboys after work. Or drink it while watching futbol and scarfing chicharron and other hearty bocas with the guys at the bar. The slightly roasty flavor should go well with pork and beef. There's also a light version, but I don't drink light beer if I can help it.
This is number two, based on signage. It's more of a typical "international-style" pilsner. Think of the stuff you get in green bottles. Light, easy to guzzle, with a smidge of hop sharpness and 5.1% alcohol. This is your session beer, your all-day drinker. If Costa Rica had any sort of spicy cuisine, this would be the drink to wash it down. As it is, I've yet to find anything hot here. I'm sure it goes well with rice and beans, though, too. I don't think there's a light variety. There is, however...
It's not just a clever name. This is the same beer, kicked up to 6.0% alcohol and sporting a snazzy red label. You might think it would be harsher, like a malt liquor. But this is no Schlitz. I actually find it to be smoother and a little sweeter than regular Pilsen. I think it's much better than the original. It goes down very easy, and it gets the job done nicely. What job? Well, we don't just drink beer for the taste, now do we? Bonus: it's on sale at Hipermas now.
There must be Germans hiding in Costa Rica. And they're brewing beer. Good beer. Take this classic German lager, for example. It's full of flavor, with a nice balance of malty sweetness and hoppy bite. I'm not sure they're strictly following the Purity Laws, though, as I think I detect a hint of corn. I'll forgive the brewing faux pas, however, because this is still an easy drinker that's a cut above most corn-fed swill. There is a light version that I have yet to sample.
As if the perfect weather and gorgeous beaches weren't enough, here is further proof that Costa Rica is a blessed country: a mass-produced, German-style, dark lager that actually tastes great. This one's a favorite. It boasts "maltas especialas" as an ingredient. You can really taste the especialas-ness! Seriously, for those that think "dark" means "heavy," this beer will change your mind. With a roasty bite and a creamy mouthfeel, it goes down smooth and easy. Not heavy at all, just a nice, rich flavor.
I mentioned malt liquor earlier. This one has all the taste of Olde English; however, weighing in at only 5.2%, it doesn't quite have the kick. Harsh. Bitter. Sure, it's a little cheaper than the rest, but I would encourage anyone to spend the extra 10-20 cents for a superior brew. I believe it's geared toward the youth market. Billboards announce, "Rock Ice is different." True enough. But in a world of good beer, different isn't always better. Costa Rica could've skipped the "ice brewing" trend and been just fine.
If you like a little slice of lime in your beer, but can't be bothered to cut your own fruit, this might be the beer for you. The artificial tart, sour flavor just about covers the taste of standard Rock Ice. Almost. Served very, very cold, it could make a good chaser for a shot of guaro while strolling along the beach. I imagine.
A note on methodology: All beers were purchased in cans, despite the availability of bottles, because bags of glass aren't fun to carry on the bus. Tallboys were purchased when available because they provided a greater sample. This is all in the name of science, you know. For this article, I stuck with the major brands. There are other beers in Costa Rica, of course. I've seen a few Mexican, Argentinian, and German varieties that I never saw in the USA. They're a little more expensive, but perhaps will be reviewed at a later date. The ability to buy singles makes sampling easy and economical. And I've even seen Miller Lite on the shelves, but I don't think I'll waste my colones on that. The standard Costa Rican brews are far superior to the normal North American offerings, in my humble opinion.
You'll note a severe lack of ales, however. My guess is that there just isn't a demand for heavier flavors here. In the land of eternal Springtime, there's not much call for a Winter warmer, for instance. I've heard rumblings of a few microbreweries around, but I haven't seen them firsthand yet. The campaign for real ale hasn't made its way to Central America just yet. But, given the quality of the standard offerings here, I have high hopes that someday Costa Rica will get a taste for quality, craft brews. In fact, that's a potentially untapped (pardon the pun) opportunity. Today's American beer snobs will soon be retiring to this country. Their parents are already here, but I think they're content to swill fruity rum conconctions while lounging on the beach. I bet in the coming years, you'll see brewpubs popping up in the Americanized suburbs, like Escazu.
Labels: costa rica
We took my gracious hostess to the airport today, as she had to return to Ohio. Over the weekend, almost all of her very large family stopped by at various times to say goodbye. We had a little dinner party on Sunday. She made lasagna. And rice and beans. (Only in Costa Rica, I swear!) I've learned a neat trick for large gatherings. Someone will inevitably ask me how I'm enjoying my time here. I respond, loudly, with two big thumbs up, "Costa Rica es Pura Vida!" The crowd goes wild.
We were all quite sad to see her go, of course. And I, myself, was a little nervous. Her vacation is over. That means my unofficial vacation is over, too. I'm on my own now. I've lost my tour-guide / interpreter. The rest of her family is still around, sure. And some of them speak a little English. But this is where it gets real. I'm no longer a houseguest. I'm a rent-paying tennant, trying to make a go in a new country. There are certain things I still have no idea how to do with my limited linguistic ability. Like, getting a haircut, for instance. I may come back to the states with dreadlocks. Anyway, as a first course of business, I did what ever man must do for his first night in his apartment: I went out to stock my fridge...
My own family is on vacation this week. The kids are on spring break, so they've all packed up and hit the beach at Tybee Island. While I have my own beaches to look forward to, I'm more than a little sad that I'm missing the family outing.
For some good news, I'm getting some decent vibes about a teaching gig in San Jose. I'll find out more when I visit the school tomorrow. We'll see how it goes.
Labels: costa rica
Labels: costa rica
Labels: costa rica
I decided to try cooking lunch for the family today. Lunch is the big meal, rather than dinner. I wanted to cook up some typical Southern cuisine for them. It was a risky proposition for several reasons. These people take food very seriously; if I screwed it up, I would lose face and would likely never be trusted in the kitchen again. Shopping and cooking are rather difficult when you don't know the names of all the ingredients you're looking for. And not all the ingredients I'm used to are available.
After breakfast, I took the bus down to the Hipermas, Costa Rica's answer to Wal*Mart (in fact, it is now owned by the Wally family). Based on what I could find, I came up with the following menu:
The chicken was fine, but unremarkable because fried chicken is fairly common here. They seemed to like the cornbread. Marta admitted later that she'd told her mother, "Tony's going to try to make bread from cornmeal. I don't think it'll work." She asked for the recipe, and was intrigued by the use of cracklin' (called "chicharrón" here, it's a common bar snack) in bread. The real surprise was the fried green tomatoes. These were a novelty. Everyone gave me strange looks when they saw me dipping slices of tomato in egg and then breading them. But they ate them!
I made too much food, forgetting that 6 chicken leg quarters feeds 6 Americans, but 12 Ticos. And I also didn't think about the fact that some of the family (the men) wouldn't be adventurous enough to risk their main meal being cooked by a gringo. They ate ahead of time. So there are a lot of leftovers that will probably go to waste unless I eat them myself. They all exclaimed "Que rico!" at the meal (a polite compliment), but I don't think they'd choose to eat it again.
Still, I'm glad I got the chance to cook for them. I enjoyed sharing a little of my culture. And it was nice to spend an afternoon thinking of home.
[Update]
My cornbread (there's no Costa Rican equivalent, so they call it "Pan de Tony") is officially a hit. It got the ultimate compliment: we had it again for coffee in the afternoon and nearly finished it off. I say "nearly" because nothing is ever completely finished here. I don't know if this is a Costa Rican habit or if it's limited to this household, but there are little baggies containing morsels of past meals everywhere, filling the fridge and covering the counter. Anyway, Marta and her niece both asked how to make the cornbread, and said it was great with coffee. The kids got a kick out of hunting for the bits of pork. When they bit into one, they would get excited and shout "Pura carne!"
I should've known that here, where there is a panadería on every corner, any type of bread would be appreciated.
Labels: costa rica
To be compensated for your services, all teachers must obtain a cedula number and have a book of receipts (facturas) printed with their name, address and cedula number. Getting this number allows you to pay taxes at the end of the fiscal year, which ends September 30 every year.
How to get Facturas: First you have to go to the Administración Tributaria. This is located in downtown San Jose. You head down Paseo Colon toward the Parque la Sabana. Address: Barrio Don Bosco, 400 meters south and east of the Pizza Hut on Paseo Colon.
After you pass Academia Europea, go a few more blocks to the west. You're going to turn left (south) at the corner where there's a bike shop called Piesa (There's a Pali store across the street too). Then you walk a few more blocks. There will be a chocolate shop on the right-hand side. Keep walking until you get to this tall government style building. It's on the right side and it takes up the whole block. The building has a red-brick facade. You have to walk to the end of the block past a parking lot, turn the corner to the right and there's a small set of stairs and an entrance. Just inside the door there was a woman at a desk who will give you the form.
You want to register for a cedula number. The paper you fill out should say "Declaración de Inscripción, modificación y desinscripción en el registro de
contribuyentes." You need your passport. And you need to write that your datos de la actividad economica begin sometime after the day you go to this office (you can't tell them that you've already started working). In the description of the type of economic activity, you write "servicios professionales." You also need your exact address (150 metros oeste del... blah, blah) and your telephone number.Once you fill out the form you will need to go inside and get it stamped. They will tell you where to go and what to do. There is no cost to get a cedula number. Once that's stamped, they'll show you a list of authorized receipt printing stores.
Labels: costa rica
Aside from the language, city life in Costa Rica doesn't strike me as too different from city life in the US. I'm sure if I went to some of the more remote locations, I would be in for a bigger culture shock. But in and around San Jose, people carry on just like people everywhere. There are a few things worth mentioning:
Labels: costa rica
Morning is my favorite time here at the house in San Rafael Abajo. I never sleep in because I don't want to miss it. I sit on the porch, sip coffee, and just enjoy the view. It's fun to watch the mass of people wind their way down the hill to San Jose during the week. Today, Sunday, it's peaceful. There is little traffic since most folks are in church or relaxing with family on their day of rest. Even the wind is taking a break today, offering a gentle breeze compared to the gusts we've had lately. The Sun, too, is taking it easy, hiding behind clouds. Today I decide to sit in the back yard, amongst the sweet lemon trees. Here the city is hidden from my view, and I am in my own private paradise.
The mornings here are magical, but they are also dangerous. It is during this time, before I am occupied with the day's tasks, that my mind drifts. I get lost in thought. I dream of all of the things I want to see and do in Costa Rica. And then I realize that each of those things means more time here, away from my family and friends back home. I miss them. Family is so crucial to life here. Marta's family visits her often, if not daily. I may not understand their words, but their affection towards each other is clear.
And so, during these times when I am wallowing in my thoughts and memories, I feel guilty for leaving my family. I had been away from them for 7 years while I was in Ohio. I was only back for a month before I left them again. We were really just getting reacquainted. They were getting used to having me around. I was becoming a part of their lives, instead of just a visitor. And then I took off. I wish they could be here. I wish I could have this experience while still feeling like part of my family. If I stick with my plan, if I stay here for at least a year, then I will be a stranger to them all over again. I begin to wonder if I should shorten my trip. The peaceful morning seems to be growing darker, gloomy, and melancholy instead of calm. I do have a return ticket I could use. I linger on this thought.
But then my coffee cup is empty, and I hear a bustle of activity in the house. It's time to get out of my head and get the day started. I have much to do here.
Labels: costa rica
Labels: costa rica
I regret not making more of an effort to learn Spanish before coming here. I'm able to get by with what little I do know. It's amazing how far you can get with just gestures and a few key phrases. I can buy food, get around by bus or taxi, and (obviously) use Internet cafes. I can survive. I learn a little bit more every day.But the lack of true human interaction is frustrating. I want to get to know people! I want to hear their stories. I want to tell them mine. I want to laugh at their jokes. I want to flirt! I want to just sit around and shoot the shit, like real people do.
There are people around me all the time. I'm hardly ever by myself. And still, I've never been more alone. I'm isolated by my ignorance.
Labels: costa rica
Thanks to a generous invitation from my ever-gracious host, I got to tag along on a trip to Playa Jaco. I couldn't pass up a weekend at the beach. I mean, this is why I came to Costa Rica! We piled into a van and hit the road by 6 AM. Juan, Marta's brother, made the two and a half hour drive into an adventure in and of itself. Driving in Costa Rica takes a mix of courage and insanity, and Juan is a pro. The road from San Jose to Jaco is narrow, steep, and curvacious. It provides a fantastic view of the mountains. We stopped along the way to look at a group of crocodiles laying in a stream beneath the road. Later we visited some fishermen and Juan talked them into selling us a bunch of red snapper. Fresh fish, right off the boat. We would eat well that night. The trip was off to a great start.
A couple of hours later, and there we were - at the beach. The guidebooks all say Jaco has become "too touristy." Well, if it is, then I can't wait to see some of Costa Rica's more secluded spots, because I didn't think it was that bad at all. Sure, they've cleared some trees to develop the land and build some hotels and restaurants, but it's nothing like Myrtle Beach or any of the other tourist traps in the US. I was told that during the major holidays, like the upcoming Easter weekend, the beach is absolutely covered with people. But it wasn't very crowded while we were there.The water was perfect. It was so warm and comfortable. The Sun got to be a bit hot, but there was plenty of wind to cool us down. I went for a walk to enjoy the scenery. By the time I got back, the family was ready to get out of the heat for awhile, so we went back to our cabinas and lounged by the pool. That night, we had a magnificent feast of fish (with gallo pinto, of course). Afterwards, a few of us decided to check out Jaco's nightlife. We hopped from bar to bar, enjoying cheap cervezas and plenty of eye candy. Then we noticed something strange at one place. There were many beautiful women, which wasn't too odd; however, they were all hovering around old white men. In fact, they were leaving with these men. A waitress at another place confirmed our suspicion: The Beatle Bar is a notorious hangout for Jaco hookers. We moved on. I convinced a companion to join me in a shot of guaro, Costa Rica's unofficial national liquor. It wasn't as harsh as I expected. I'm still partial to bourbon, but I could get used to guaro. The local beer, however, was surprisingly good. Much, much better than the standard American beers. I'll describe them in more detail in a later post, but I can tell you with great certainty that they all go down quite smoothly.
Sunday, I decided to give the family some space and wandered around the beach by myself. There are few things in life that are better than laying on the beach, drinking a cold beer, and listening to the crash of waves. I stayed there all day so that I could watch the Sun set over the Pacific. At that moment, I realized: This makes it all worthwhile. All of the job interviews, all of the long bus rides around the city, all of the struggles to communicate, all of the hassles are so that I can enjoy times like this. Life is good. Pura Vida!
I scoped out some hostels that I could possibly stay at for future trips. Most seem to be around 25 bucks for a private room. A bus ride from San Jose to Jaco is only about 3 hours and 3 dollars. I think that's very do-able for a weekend trip. I'm already looking forward to going back.
See the rest of the pictures here.
Labels: costa rica
I'm discovering that the market for teachers in Costa Rica is something like the market was for tech workers when I first went to Ohio. Teachers are essentially treated like contractors and many of the schools I've visited are essentially temp agencies. There is no promise for steady work. They can only offer what the market demands. As there are more students, then there is a greater demand for teachers. Many teachers work for several different schools/agencies in order to build a livable schedule of 20-25 hours a week. And, since many of these "schools" actually send teachers out to business locations for their classes, this means a lot of traveling. I'm starting to get used to the idea that I won't have a regular job.I'm also getting more comfortable with San Jose. I'm starting to learn my way around, and actually took the bus all by myself finally. The city is growing on me. While it is rather dirty and crowded, it also has an interesting vibe. It's full of life. I think I'll try to find work in the greater San Jose area for now, rather than move out to the suburbs. I feel like I need to experience the capital city for awhile.
I did visit a couple of schools in Heredia, which is a college town northwest of San Jose. It's much cleaner and nicer. The streets are filled with students, and I'm sure it has the active nightlife that goes along with college kids. But it's too far to commute from my current housing. I'd have to find a (cheap) place closer. I'm still considering it as an option. Maybe after 4-6 months, I'll give it a shot.
Unless, of course, I somehow manage to land that elusive dreamjob of teaching at the beach.
Labels: costa rica, teaching
Each morning, for the past few days, we have been without water. The utility company is working on something up the hill, tearing up the road and digging a big hole. So they shut off our water randomly and without warning. We were caught off-guard at first, and had to go without coffee one afternoon! That was a sad day. But we've learned to deal with the low pressure and occasional outage by saving water in any container we can find. This morning, for instance, I bathed out of a bucket of cold water.
I'm already used to icy showers. My bathroom doesn't have hot water. This is the Tico way. I think I earned a little respect by not complaining about it, too. For my first couple of mornings here, the family would laugh and ask me how I enjoyed my shower. I would grin and say, "Refreshing!" But really, when the sun beats down and the temperature is 70 - 80 degrees, a cold shower feels pretty good. I think it's a fair trade-off. Marta says if I decide to stay here, she will install a shower warmer for me. I've heard about these. They're also called "Suicide Showers" because it's an electric device that attaches to the showerhead to heat the water. Nobody has actually died from using one, though. At least, I don't think so.
Labels: costa rica
Labels: costa rica